Gianni's Versace
Milan’s emergence as a fashion capital was a “phenomenon” in the late 70s, an occurrence that happened in spite of the material conditions that plagued the city. Vying against other major Italian cities, namely Rome and Florence, Milan came out ahead due to the perfect storm of press, industry, and a wave of major designers like Jean Baptiste Caumont, Giorgio Armani, Anna Fendi, Aldo Ferrante of Basile, Mariuccia Manedlli of Krizia, and Gianni Versace, who designed for Genny and its avant-garde sublabel, Complice.
Versace would go on to start his own eponymous label in 1978, taking forward with him the design language he had picked up during his time at Genny and Complice, blending in his own inspirations that ranged from Greco-Roman art to Andy Warhol, Superman, Poiret, and his own Southern Italian heritage.
His garments were sensual, hugging and wrapping around the body to create sculpture-like effects, supported by broad pagoda shoulders and nipped waists, similar to that of his Tunisian contemporary, Alaia, who was designing in Paris. Silks and linens were draped effortlessly over harem and renaissance pants, which cinched around the calf and flowed over the thighs, evocative of Japanese tobi pants, but recontextualized to be carefree and sexy. Versace’s specialty, best seen in his S/S ‘82 show, were bright and campy color palettes; dresses and blouses in heavily saturated primaries were paired with dizzying stripes, bold graphics, and clashing geometric patterns, further exaggerated through precise tailoring and pleating.
Versace’s earlier work was decidedly pared down – still extravagant and luxurious, but a far cry from the Medusa adorned provocateur that would define the label in its later years.
“I look ahead. But I never forget what has happened before.”
Versace would go on to start his own eponymous label in 1978, taking forward with him the design language he had picked up during his time at Genny and Complice, blending in his own inspirations that ranged from Greco-Roman art to Andy Warhol, Superman, Poiret, and his own Southern Italian heritage.
His garments were sensual, hugging and wrapping around the body to create sculpture-like effects, supported by broad pagoda shoulders and nipped waists, similar to that of his Tunisian contemporary, Alaia, who was designing in Paris. Silks and linens were draped effortlessly over harem and renaissance pants, which cinched around the calf and flowed over the thighs, evocative of Japanese tobi pants, but recontextualized to be carefree and sexy. Versace’s specialty, best seen in his S/S ‘82 show, were bright and campy color palettes; dresses and blouses in heavily saturated primaries were paired with dizzying stripes, bold graphics, and clashing geometric patterns, further exaggerated through precise tailoring and pleating.
Versace’s earlier work was decidedly pared down – still extravagant and luxurious, but a far cry from the Medusa adorned provocateur that would define the label in its later years.
“I look ahead. But I never forget what has happened before.”